Burger Brawl: Maakapow, Khar vs Fatboy’s Kitchen, Andheri

The burger, like the biryani, is a polarising dish. While no two people can agree about what constitutes the perfect burger, to us it should meet some basic criteria: the meat should be well-cooked, the bun should be sturdy yet yielding and the condiments should compliment, and not overwhelm the meat. We tried the buns offered by Maakapow and Fatboy’s Kitchen, two burger-focused takeaway and home delivery joints in Khar and Andheri West respectively, and found that most of their meat-laden offerings check these boxes.

An irate vegetarian was our dinner companion last week when we ordered from Maakapow, a new burger-focused delivery service in Khar.  She was slighted by the fact that vegetarians only get to pick from three sliders, while carnivores can select from six full-sized burgers and three sliders. She was doubly offended when her slider arrived in a plain white paper box, while ours was packaged in a bright yellow box with a cartoon drawing of an aunty (presumably a Catholic one) holding up a tray with a burger on it. Her anger was justified.

Maakapow is singularly out to impress meat eaters. To this end and to our delight, pork dominates the succinct menu, with three burgers made using the meat. Chicken, lamb and buff are equally represented with a burger each. Three out of the six non-vegetarian burgers are available as sliders too. We empathised with our dinner guest for all of five minutes before losing ourselves to the thrilling Goa sausage pow (Rs270). It’s a burger presented as a bunny chow – a hollow bun is stuffed with ham, a heap of caramelised onions and smoked and spicy Goa sausages.

The cheesy chicken (Rs300 for a regular burger and Rs100 for a slider) and smoked English pork burgers (Rs330 for a regular burger and Rs115 for a slider) were almost as impressive. We regretted not ordering a regular portion of the cheesy chicken in which the moist patty oozed cheese. A single slice of melted cheese and caramelised onions were the glue that held together the smoked English pork burger containing a juicy patty flavoured with garlic butter. We also loved their ‘secret’ red sauce that’s mildly spicy, tangy and used liberally across their buns.

The wine and pepper sauce, while compatible with the well-done buff in the BBQ pepper steak burger (Rs330), was excessively used. And the jalapeno mac n cheese slider (Rs85) was a boring starchy snack with scant jalapenos. Maakapow’s somewhat stiff sesame-stippled buns also need work, but the majority of carnivores on the table could fault them for little else.

Get: Goa sausage pow (Rs270), cheesy chicken burger (Rs300 for a regular burger and Rs100 for a slider), smoked English pork burger (Rs330 for a regular burger and Rs115 for a slider).

Skip: BBQ pepper steak burger (Rs330), jalapeno mac n cheese slider (Rs85).

Prices include taxes. This review was conducted anonymously.

Maakapow, Shop No.3, opposite St. Elias School, Haji Siddiqui Building, near The Hive, Dr. B. R. Ambedkar Road, Khar. Tel: 022 3312 6067. Get directions here. Maakapow offers free home delivery in Bandra and Khar from Tuesday to Sunday, from 12.30pm to 10pm; Monday, closed.

We were late to find out about Fatboy’s Kitchen, a takeaway and home delivery kitchen that has been plying Andheri with meat, mayonnaise and cheese-laden sandwiches and burgers since June 2014. During a burger hop last week, we chomped through four out of the dozen burgers served here. They reaffirmed what Maakapow had established – that there is rarely ever any merit in a vegetarian burger. To Fatboy’s credit, they’ve been more creative with their vegetarian selection – you can choose from a mushroom; blackbean; potato cheese popper; and vegetable burger with jalapeno cheese balls. Alas, both the mushroom burger (Rs240) and blackbean burger (Rs240) had patties as coarse and dry as carboard that tasted little of minced mushrooms or spiced black beans.

Pork is conspicuously absent on their menu. Instead you can pick between a chicken and a beef (buff) patty for any of their seven non-veg burgers. The deliciously over-the-top Black Jack (Rs250 with chicken or Rs310 with beef), which had chicken salami, beef, fried egg, coleslaw, sauteed onions and pickles smushed between two crisp sesame buns, can guarantee a speedy recovery from a stubborn hangover. While the Black Jack is decidedly American in its appeal, the green chilli cheese burger (Rs250 with chicken and Rs300 with beef) enclosing a succulent green chilli-infused chicken patty, cream cheese and cheesy jalapeno poppers was more Indian in style, but equally terrific.

Get: Black Jack (Rs250 with chicken or Rs310 with beef), green chilli cheese burger (Rs250 with chicken and Rs300 with beef).

Skip: Mushroom burger (Rs240), black bean burger (Rs240).

Prices include taxes. This review was conducted anonymously.

Fatboy’s Kitchen, Shop No.7, near Lion Kartar Singh Hospital, Dadabhai Cross Road No.2 Gaondevi Dongri, Andheri (West). Tel: 96193 37824. Fatboy’s Kitchen offers free home delivery in Andheri (West) for orders above Rs300. Open daily, from noon to 4pm and from 6pm to 3am. Get directions here.

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