Burger Brawl: The Burgery vs Between Breads
Bandra West already has a bunch of burger joints so when a pair of patty purveyors – one new and one relaunched – opened in the suburb earlier this month, we felt it was only right to eat at both and round them up in a burger brawl. Here are the results of our taste tests.
The Burgery is a cute little shop with an exterior that resembles a shipping container. The tagline under the name reads #BestinTown, which is a bold statement in a market as saturated as Bandra. Unfortunately the mince lamb burger (Rs345) we tried did little to support their claim. The patty, served in a substantial bun on a bed of fried onion, was dry and bland with none of the rich flavour we were expecting. The cheesy fries (Rs185) we ordered on the side were better. The crisp chips bathed in a pool of melted cheese with a spatter of mayo were like a greasy spoon-style poutine. The pesto fries (Rs145), on the other hand, were coated in grainy pesto that left a bitter aftertaste.
The tenderloin burger (Rs345) was as disappointing. The buffalo mince patty was overcooked and dry and seasoned with what tasted like the oregano-basil spice mix that you get with home-delivered pizza. The bun, which was not toasted, quickly turned to mush under the onslaught of mayo and fried onion, making the burger a struggle to get through.
The meat lover in us balks at the idea of a veg patty winning pride of place in a burger shop, but The Great Indian Dabeli (Rs 235) bested its non-vegetarian counterparts. The crunchy, well-spiced potato patty was topped with masala peanuts, pomegranate seeds and sev with the pao was swapped for a sesame-speckled bun. They also churned out a decent stuffed chicken and cheese burger (Rs295), with stretchy mozzarella inside the centre of a crisp chicken patty.
Get: The Great Indian Dabeli (Rs 235), stuffed chicken and cheese (Rs295), cheesy fries (Rs185).
Skip: Mince lamb burger (Rs345), tenderloin burger (Rs345), pesto fries (Rs145).
Prices exclude taxes. They levy a ten per cent service charge.
The Burgery, 107A Dr. B. R. Ambedkar Road, next to State Bank of India, opposite Zig Zag Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (West). Tel: 83558 71843. Open daily, from 11am to midnight. Get directions here.
Between Breads is back in action after a fourth-month hiatus, with refurbished interiors and a beefed-up menu of burgers, sandwiches, hot dogs, waffles and shakes. A bigger menu can be a mixed blessing because sometimes, more options can equal less attention to detail.
We focused on the burgers and sides, beginning with the bacon bombs (Rs255). The salt-averse may shy away from these croquettes, but to us they were things of beauty. Served with herbed mayo, their crunchy batter and crumb-fried casings gave way to molten cores of mozzarella and bacon. We were hoping the Popper Whopper (Rs300), a bun encasing three jalapeño poppers perched atop a veggie patty on a bed of lettuce, tomato and fried onion, would be similarly gooey. But something was amiss. The poppers were crumbly instead of oozing, and a little too pungent for our taste.
Vegetarians have as much to choose from as carnivores. The Shrumi (Rs355), a minced mushroom patty topped with a layer of garlicky, grilled mushroom and held together with melted cheese, packed such an umami punch that it will pique the interest of meat eaters as well. They may be less satisfied with the Classic Cubano (Rs400), a combination of pulled pork, ham, jalapeño and Emmental, which sounds promising on paper. In reality, an excess of barbecue sauce inundates the pork and drowns the more delicate flavour of the ham.
Instead of being the hero of the dish, the chopped steak in the Steak Out (Rs400) was begging for rescue from a deluge of barbecue and sweet chilli sauce and smoked cheddar. Sadly, the pieces we could descry were a tad chewy. The Chicken Not-so-little (Rs350) restored our faith in Between Breads’s burger making abilities. The crispy chicken patty, infused with paprika, peri peri and gherkins, and topped with a dollop of tangy slaw, was crunchy on the outside and juicy in the middle, and the toasted bun held up well to lashings of mayo.
Get: Bacon bombs (Rs255); Shrumi (Rs355), The Chicken Not-so-little (Rs350).
Skip: The Popper Whopper (Rs300), Classic Cubano (Rs400), the Steak Out (Rs400).
Prices include taxes.
Between Breads, 2, Kalpitam Apartments, opposite Hawaiian Shack, 16th Road, Bandra (West). Tel: 022 2604 5577. Open daily, from noon to 11pm. Get directions here.
These reviews were conducted anonymously. It is our policy to wait a week after an establishment has opened before we review it.