Food Fight: Eggs Kejriwal
Devi Prasad Kejriwal is frequently recalled in Mumbai’s food circles. The eggs Kejriwal is named after the Marwari businessman, who had a penchant for eggs, forbidden to him as he belonged to a staunchly vegetarian family. The story goes that Kejriwal defiantly feasted on eggs at The Willingdon Sports Club in Tardeo, of which he was a member. Kejriwal would customise his regular order of fried eggs on toast with green chillies and cheese. The club reportedly honoured his devotion to the dish by adding it to its menu. Other gymkhanas adopted the preparation soon after and bakeries, restaurants and bars have followed more recently. We sought out eggs Kejriwal across six restaurants (since clubs are closed to the general public) to find the best iteration of the gent’s favourite snack. Here, in ascending order, is our verdict:
The Bar Stock Exchange
Hotel Apollo, Lansdowne Road, behind Regal Cinema, Colaba. Tel: 022 2281 9898.
The Colaba branch of The Bar Stock Exchange opens for breakfast at 8am. The press release that followed its launch two weeks ago claimed the bar serves eggs Kejriwal. However we found that it’s an off-the-menu item and counts among the chef’s specials. Alas the recipe is so altered from the original that eggs Kejriwal is a misleading name for it. Their version has pedestrian white toast, sliced cheese, mushrooms and poached eggs bafflingly cloaked in a Burgundy-hued wine sauce. While the perfectly poached eggs and sauce work well together, this is no eggs Kejriwal.
Ground Floor, The Capital, behind ICICI Bank, G Block, Bandra-Kurla Complex, Bandra (East). Tel: 022 4003 5678.
It took longer for the staff to fetch us a bottle of water than it took the kitchen at this Parsi restaurant to send out a plate of eggs Kejriwal, presumably a much-ordered item here. Promptness scored over presentation however. Our plate had runny fried eggs shoddily balanced over sauteed mushrooms and buttered pao. The cheese and chillies were scant and a blitz of salt further marred the dish.
J. P. Road, Aram Nagar II, opposite Palm Beach Apartments, Versova, Andheri (West). Tel: 022 2636 8880.
The Andheri restaurant’s take on the breakfast dish is unique as they serve omelettes in place of fried eggs. Alas, the dish lacked heat and they skimped on the cheese. The toasts were blotched as opposed to slathered with melted cheese and the omelette, while pleasingly fluffy, had a pitiable garnish of chillies.
Modern House, Dr. V. B. Gandhi Marg, opposite One Forbes, Fort. Tel: 022 2284 2430.
Adding mushroom to eggs Kejriwal is a forgiveable bastardisation, when the outcome is as delicious as it is at this Fort cafe. The combination of multi-grain toast, creamy mushrooms spiked with chilli flakes and green chillies, and cheese speckled-fried eggs is mood-altering.
Cusrow Baug, Electric House, Colaba. Tel: 022 3371 6011. Also at Ground Floor, Link Square Mall, 33rd Road, near KFC, off Linking Road, Bandra (West). Tel: 91673 85251. Ground Floor, The Capital, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East). Tel: 022 2654 2696. Poornima Building, near Jaslok Hospital, off Peddar Road. Tel: 022 2351 5225. Nebula Building, Lokhandwala Market, Andheri (West). Tel: 022 2639 4834. Shop No.G8, Central Avenue, next to Kotak Mahindra Bank, Hiranandani Gardens, Powai. Tel: 98205 10069. Mehta Building, Nagindas Master Lane, Hutatma Chowk, Fort. Tel: 022 3395 6177.
You’ll have to endure a 20-minute wait while two doughnut-sized buns blanketed with a delicious blend of spiced ketchup, grated cheese and sliced green chillies are grilled to a perfect crisp. Two runny fried eggs are laid over the generous bed of cheese and bread that soak up the spilled yolks.
The Bombay Canteen WINNER
Unit 1, Process House, near Radio Mirchi, Kamala Mills, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel. Tel: 022 4966 6666.
The all-day restaurant has been faithful to the ingredients utilised in Devi Prasad Kejriwal’s favourite breakfast. However the appetiser looks nothing like what Willingdon plated for their esteemed member. The textured snack is a visual treat with its halo of pungent coriander and green chilli chutney encircling a crunchy circular pao baked in-house. The runny yolks are obscured by a layer of cheesy egg white covering the circumference of the bun. The creamy richness of the yolks and cheese is nicely offset by the sharpness of the garnish creatively presented here as chutney.
Prices exclude taxes.