Food Review: Coma Coma
Coma Coma, a week-old Mexican food delivery service in Bandra, was born out of the yearning two men felt for the cuisine they got acquainted with during their time in the US. Hersh Kumbhani, a partner at Coma Coma, lived in America for a year when he was employed with Zomato and had access to “great Mexican”. After quitting Zomato and returning to his home in Mumbai this year, Kumbhani decided to set up his own Mexican kitchen along with his partner, Bandra-residing Nikhil Gonsalves, whose stint in New York as a marketing professional had exposed him to late night taco trucks run by Mexican families.
The little Mexican in Mumbai has not evolved beyond Tex-Mex. Previous attempts at serving authentic Mexican such as El Mexicano, the restaurant helmed by Ananda Solomon at Taj President in Cuffe Parade in the 1990s, have been shortlived. Coma Coma’s food is refreshingly anti-Tex-Mex. We ordered a selection of their burritos, burrito bowls, tortas and empanadas and were pleasantly surprised that not one of our picks was smothered with cheese or over-seasoned with a generic chipotle spice mix. They’ve conveyed the breadth of the cuisine with the use of chillis such as ancho, pasilla, serrano and habanero, which they import, and their inclusion of meats such as pork and buff, that have been left out of the menus at chains such as Taco Bell, Loco Chino, Mexi Loko and Uba Tuba, the casual dining Mexican joint in Bandra.
Coma Coma only delivers within Bandra and Khar (and up to Mahim, BKC and Juhu through Scootsy) . Our two burrito bowls, the Barbacoa with buff (Rs380) and the Aubergenie (Rs320) made us glad we live in their delivery radius. The buff bowl had a base layer of parboiled rice mixed with pasilla-spiked beans over which they had laid a flavour-rich heap of crunchy onions and jalapenos and strands of moist buff tossed in ancho-serrano barbecue sauce. The Aubergenie was the vegetarian equivalent of the umami bowl. The savoury and spicy meal had diced, fried eggplant dusted with a secret spice mix that had garlic and paprika powders, sauteed spinach, mashed sweet potato and the same seasoned rice and beans blend.
The Chipoyo burrito (Rs360), a chipotle-flavoured chicken burrito plumped with beans, rice and cheese was well portioned but bland compared to their nuanced burrito bowls. Skip the tortas, a Mexican sandwich, that were let down by doughy bread rolls smeared with mayonnaise and pedestrian fillings of tomato and lettuce. Skinny, flattened slabs of ancho chilli-glazed pork belly could not salvage the PB & J (in this case pork belly and jalapeño, Rs340). The Milanesa (Rs320), packed with crumb-fried chicken breast and boiled eggs, was equally uninspired. Taparoo (Rs300), stuffed with a thick, crunchy tapioca patty paired with melted cheese and gussied up with spicy chipotle ketchup, was the winning torta.
By accident Mexigoa (Rs250), a perfectly crisped, palm-sized empanada generously filled with tangy pork mince, landed up in our order. The spiced pumpkin (Rs200) variant under desserts was Thanksgiving in a flaky empanada. Served with a side of luscious dulce de leche, the sweet, cinnamon-flavoured pumpkin mash under the crisp shell put us in the holiday spirit three weeks too early. The festive dessert tied with the chocolate tres leches (Rs200), a fun and successful play on the traditional tres leches. The two-tiered chilled treat had whipped cream perched on sponge cake soaking in a pool of milk chocolate sauce.
Get: Barbacoa (Rs380); Aubergenie (Rs320); Mexigoa (Rs250); spiced pumpkin empanada (Rs200); and chocolate tres leches (Rs200).
Skip: PB & J (Rs340) and Milanesa (Rs320).
It is our policy to wait at least a week after an establishment has opened before we review it.
Prices include taxes. This review was conducted anonymously.
Coma Coma offers free delivery in Bandra and Khar against a minimum order of Rs330. Open Wednesday to Monday, from 11.30am to 11.30pm; Tuesday, closed. To place an order, call 87677 84376. Order from Scootsy.